SNOW CLIMBING
The techniques required for ice climbing shall be same as for rock and snow climbing. The difference is only of the field of action. Ice is as hard as any face of rock and many methods of rock climbing can be employed to negotiate any ice wall. This is one of the reason why most of the experienced climbers advice that one should acquire a reasonably good proficiency in rock climbing including the artificial climbing before thinking of snow and ice climbing. This practice and experience on rock is a great help in learning the ice techniques because the process of climbing, anchoring, belaying and descending involves the same procedure. However, holds and anchors are not available in ice which have to be made by the climber themselves with pistons, screws or deadman, etc. Secondly, he has only three limbs at his disposal instead of four on the rocks because one hand is always occupied by the ice axe. The holds are also not very strong and firm as on rocks. The climbing field is also comparatively different due to severe cold, crevasses and high altitude problems. Snow Climbing is an essential part of all mountaineering expeditions in Himalayas. Due to the technical nature of this adventure sport Snow Climbing in India is not taken up seperately or in exclusivity, rather its a part of mountaineering expeditions. Snow Climbing is also an important part of the mountaineering courses conducted in India by various mountaineering institutes like Nehru Institute of Mountaineering at Uttarkashi, HMI at Darjeeling and other institutes established Government of India in the Himalayas, to promote mountaineering and other mountain sports.
More about the ice wall and conditions
Ice ratings can be nebulous, because the medium constantly changes. When a waterfall first freezes each season, the ice is thin and the climbing desperate. As the ice thickens, it becomes easier to climb and protect. In early morning it's probably cold and brittle, though it might turn to perfect plastic ice by mid-morning, and slush by afternoon. If it's a popular route, it'll get pockmarked so it becomes like a pegboard. Other factors change a route from year to year, like amount of runoff, prevailing temperatures, and wind. Far more important than a rating in a guidebook is the climb's appearance, the condition of the ice, the temperature, and the climbers.
Ice Rating
The ice rating system in North America has three
categories:WI for water ice, AI for alpine ice, and M for mixed. Water ice grades currently go from WI 1 to WI 8.
WI 3 is a good grade for a fit beginner to toprope.
WI 4 approaches vertical,
WI 5 has extended sections of vertical ice,
WI 6 is steep and technical.
WI 7 is steep, technical, and often dangerous.
Marginal pick placements usually mean marginal pro, so as difficulty increases so does the danger.

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